Meadow Crib/Lapghan Blanket Crochet Pattern

I know it’s usually harder to crochet in the warmer months. I say turn up the AC and make some tea and just do it. As someone who’s always cold, it works out for me 😉 But I decided to look forward to spring a few months early this year. My mom had picked up this sage color of Caron One Pound for me a while back (like, years ago), and it was calling out “springtime” for me. So I found the perfect complimentary cream color and set out to make a sunnier days blanket.

I won’t lie, I originally planned to make this a throw blanket. But it was my first time using the harlequin stitch and I didn’t know just how much it would shrink up. BUT – it all turned out fine in the end, because baby blankets are my fave and this one will fit perfectly in my 1 year old’s room. It’s a little bigger than a standard baby blanket, measuring 36 x 52 inches. But that’s the perfect size for a toddler or crib blanket (literally perfect – that’s exactly how big crib mattresses are!). As a bonus it also works as a lapghan. It kept me pretty cozy on the couch while I finished it up 🙂 I’ll include instructions in the pattern for making a traditional baby blanket as well as a throw size.

Lately I’m really into texture. I love understated designs, and texture is a beautiful way to add details while keeping the colors and design simple. I first saw the harlequin stitch on Daisy Farm Crafts, and knew I wanted to make a blanket using mostly one solid color. The stitch creates diamond shape but reminds me of foliage, so of course perfect for my spring theme. (I also could go for a light blue and bright white version – a little Elsa/snowflake vibe. But maybe next winter.)

Daisy Farm Crafts has a great tutorial on their site, which I used to practice the stitch before setting out to design the blanket. I ended up using the suggested 5.5 mm hook (as suggested on the yarn label – I did try one size up and one down).

I couldn’t find the perfect cream color in the same brand of Caron yarn, but Red Heart Super Saver had one that was just right (Aran). The weight and type of yarn is the same, but the Red Heart did end up being a little thinner than the Caron. I had to adjust my tension slightly on my cream rows, but it turned out fine. You should be able to use any worsted weight yarn for this pattern.

I always use washable yarn for my baby blankets. Acrylic yarn is known to be scratchy and rough, but I’ve made many a baby blanket with it. I always wash the blanket before handing it over, and running it through the washer/dryer has always made them nice and soft. Soft enough for a baby! Honestly if I had a baby blanket that couldn’t be washed, I would never use it. Babies are not known for keeping things clean. Toddlers aren’t much better.

I love the way the texture turned out. Well worth learning a new stitch! I’m also really pleased with the colors. I’d love to make one in cream with navy stripes, too. Or ice blue with white for a snowflake/winter inspired blanket.

Okay so the pattern is below! You can also find an inexpensive ad-free PDF version in my Etsy and Ravelry shops.

Meadow Crib / Lapghan Blanket

Materials:

• 2 skeins of your color 1 ( I used Caron One Pound in the color Sage and went through about 1 1/3 skeins total)
• 1 skein of color 2 ( I used Red Heart Super Saver Jumbo in Aran)
• 5.5 mm hook
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Gauge:

• 2 horizontal harlequin stitches per 4 inches
• 4 rows per 4 inches

Size:

35 x 52 inches

Adaptations:

This pattern is for a crib or lapghan sized blanket. To increase or decrease the size of your blanket, your foundation row must be in multiples of 8+1. Each multiple of 8 will make 1 diamond, and each diamond using this gauge is just under 2 inches wide. Below are my suggestions for different sizes:

Throw (50 x 60 in):

• Chain 201; after the first set of color 2 stripes, complete 26 1/2 iterations in color 1 before beginning the second set of color 2 stripes.

Baby blanket (36 x 42 in):

• Chain 145; after the first set of color 2 stripes, complete 5 1/2 iterations in color 1 before beginning the second set of color 2 stripes.

Pattern:

Foundation row: Chain 145.

Row 1: In the 5th ch from hook, complete [3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc]. *Skip 3 ch. Sc in the 4th ch. Skip 3 ch. In the 4th ch, complete [3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc].* Repeat * to the end of the row. You will end the row with skipping 3 ch and sc in the last ch. You will have 18 peaks (or shells or half diamonds, however you prefer to look at it). Ch 3 and turn.

Row 2: Dc3tog over the next 3 dc. *Ch 7, dc6tog over the next 6 dc, skipping the ch 1 between the first and last 3 dc (at the bottom of the “valley”). * Repeat * until the final full “valley.” End the row with dc3tog, ch 3, dc into the top of the last ch. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: Complete 3 dc between the turning ch and last dc of previous row. *Sc into the ch 1 sp from Row 1’s “peak” (you will essentially “trap” or tie down the ch 7 from Row 2). Complete [3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc] into the center of the next dc6tog from the previous row.* Repeat * through the last dc6tog from the previous row. End with 3 dc into the dc3tog from the previous row. Dc into the top of the turning ch. Ch 4 and turn.

Row 4: Dc6tog across the next 6 dc, skipping the ch 1 between the first and last 3 dc (at the bottom of the “valley,” just as in Row 2). *Ch 7. Dc6tog across the next 6 dc, skipping the ch 1 between the first and last 3 dc.* Repeat * until the end of the last full “valley.” End the row with ch 3 and sc into the base of the turning ch. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5: Complete [3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc] into the center of the first dc6tog from previous row. *Sc into the ch 1 sp from Row 3’s “peak” (just as you did when completing Row 3). Complete [3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc] into the center of the next dc6tog from the previous row.* Repeat * through the last dc6tog. Sc into the top of the turning ch. Ch 3 and turn.

Rows 6-7: Repeat rows 2-3. On the last pull through of row 7, complete a color change by pulling through your second color.

Rows 8-9: Repeat rows 4-5. On the last pull through of row 9, complete a color change by pulling through your first color.

Rows 10-13: Repeat rows 2-5.

Rows 14-15: Repeat rows 2-3. On the last pull through of row 10, complete a color change by pulling through your second color.

Rows 16-17: Repeat rows 4-5. On the last pull through of row 10, complete a color change by pulling through your first color.

Rows 18-21: Repeat rows 2-5.

Rows 22-23: Repeat rows 2-3. On the last pull through of row 10, complete a color change by pulling through your second color.

Rows 24-25: Repeat rows 4-5. On the last pull through of row 10, complete a color change by pulling through your first color.

Rows 26-65: Repeat rows 2-5 ten times.

Rows 66-67: Repeat rows 2-3. On the last pull through of row 10, complete a color change by pulling through your second color.

Rows 68-69: Repeat rows 4-5. On the last pull through of row 10, complete a color change by pulling through your first color.

Rows 70-73: Repeat rows 2-5.

Rows 74-75: Repeat rows 2-3. On the last pull through of row 10, complete a color change by pulling through your second color.

Rows 76-77: Repeat rows 4-5. On the last pull through of row 10, complete a color change by pulling through your first color.

Rows 78-81: Repeat rows 2-5.

Rows 82-83: Repeat rows 2-3. On the last pull through of row 10, complete a color change by pulling through your second color.

Rows 84-85: Repeat rows 4-5. On the last pull through of row 10, complete a color change by pulling through your first color.

Rows 86-89: Repeat rows 2-5.

Rows 90-91: Repeat rows 2-3.

Row 92: Repeat row 2, replacing each ch 7 with the following: ch 3, sc into the ch 1 sp (the top of the “peak”) from the previous row, ch 3. End the row with ch 3 and sc into the top of the turning ch.

Weave in your loose ends with a tapestry needle. TIP: Following the peaks and valleys of the stitches will help ensure the ends won’t come loose.

(c) Nicolle Bernard, 2018

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